Stove-pipe to Liner Adapter: This piece physically adapts the rigid interior stove pipe to flexible liner. It allows a length of straight pipe to pass through your masonry wall, into the chimney, and connect to the flexible stainless chimney liner. Masonry Thimble: This item installs into the 6-8" diameter hole you drill in your masonry chimney. The easiest way to complete your system would be to adapt the standard stove-pipe to a masonry liner.įor a normal chimney-pipe to masonry-liner system, you will need a few pieces that aren't "standard" on most installations. 45/90 degree are the most common, so you should have no issue angling the pipe to penetrate the masonry at 90 degrees. This stove-pipe comes with "elbows" at various angles. Rather, use an angled piece, then a straight, and then another angled piece to complete the connection. Your question about bending the pipe: Definitely do not ever physically bend a pipe to create a curve, etc. It is more expensive than single-walled pipe, has less clearance requirement of 8 inches versus (18-inch clearance of single-wall) but has longer life, and isn't burning hot to the touch. This has a twist-lock connection that will go on your stoves outlet, either top or rear vented. When you come off of your stove with the flue pipe, you would want double-walled black stovepipe. Onto the parts! Since you are going to be dealing with a freestanding stove as well as a chimney liner, you're likely going to need an adapter as you enter the masonry. Old masonry chimneys are dangerous and should be inspected, even if using a liner. If you're still debating which model to get, you could save yourself some money by going with 6" diameter versus 8", as the larger it is the more expensive. Make sure you take care when addressing this.ĭifferent stoves have different pipe diameters. Zero-clearance fireplaces are only zero clearance to certain materials, like masonry, etc. Always check your clearances to combustible materials. I sold venting pipe professionally for 4 years, and have experience designing a variety of systems.ġ.
I realize this post is "old" however I wanted to post the answers as the information is always relevant to future question askers! :) and that chimneys on exterior walls cause poor air flow. But everything I've read says never to do that. Our other option is to wait, and build a new chimney/fireplace into a one-room extension we plan to add to our two-story house. Will the chimney be a fire hazard even with insulated liner? I'm a novice at this, and am sure I've missed some details. Also, the fireplace will "stick out" into the room, so we will have to make a mantel/hearth around it that will basically eat up 1/6th of the living room. Because we cannot stick the stove "into" the wall because there is no fireplace opening, the new fireplace vent would have to bend into the chimney at some point, and we would have to cut a hole into the brick chimney for the flu. Our rough plan is to place a lightweight floor protector, rather than a stone hearth, so the floor can bear the weight. since there is combustible material against the chimney.
INSTALLING ZERO CLEARANCE FIREPLACE INSTALL
I know we will have to install an insulated chimney liner esp. The best place (to our mind) would be in the living room, which means that it would squeeze into a corner of the living room, with a doorway on either side of the hearth. We want to install a zero-clearance wood-burning fireplace. We have no idea where the original flue was, but it must have vented a wood stove because there is no structure for a fireplace. Our 83 year old house has a brick chimney covered up with drywall.
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